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Temperature Control "feedback"

Discussion in 'Temperature Control' started by PapaSmurf, Aug 5, 2015.

  1. CYB3R N1NJ4

    CYB3R N1NJ4 The Vaping Ninja

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    Yeah... that!!!!
    hahahaha
    Didnt want to call it compressed because it didnt look like it was intended to be a micro.
     
  2. Gert_Koen

    Gert_Koen Active Member

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    The small piece of nickel I had is finished. I had 28G.
    Just finished rebuilding one of the OCC coils..Only had enough for a single coil but was very easy to rebuild..I think my Dual Nickel builds would work much beter in the OCC body because of the ceramic enclosure. I double check and Im limited to 0.1 builds..Ag not a train smash
     
  3. CYB3R N1NJ4

    CYB3R N1NJ4 The Vaping Ninja

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    Just had this observation last night, wanted to see if the change in power affected the vape.
    Bear in mind I own a wolf (yes, the dog too!) but not sure about everyone elses TC devise.
    I changed over to wattage and increased it by 10w to 35w and the vape was the same. Increased it to 50w and exactly the same vape.

    It appears on my wolf that it totally ignores the wattage when it finds a nickel build.
    I do know that it always fires temp first to see what build it is. ie. a kanthal build will fire at temp at a new atty always then kick over to power. So I could put wattage on 100w and it will still vape at the nickels set temp.
    Any other TC mods do that or is it just the wolf?
     
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  4. arthster

    arthster Staff Member Moderator

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    well my findings on the wolf where slightly different.

    If you set it to for example to 270 deg cel and 15 watt. and fire it. you will see the wattage stays close to 15 watt while the temp doesn't really reach that high. as you increase wattage you will notice the temp gets closer to target and the wattage fluctuations become more apparent.

    I think the trick with the wolf would be to balance wattage and temp to the point where temp and wattage readings become more stable.
     
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  5. baksteen8168

    baksteen8168 Useful Idiot Staff Member Moderator

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    Cant speak for them all, but the eVic vt switches to vw mode if it detects kantal. If you then screw a nickel build on, you have to manually switch back to temp mode or it wont fire.
     
  6. CYB3R N1NJ4

    CYB3R N1NJ4 The Vaping Ninja

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    Ok, so maybe I was wrong!
    Pushed it to 70w and it was warmer.
    On a positive note though, at least I know my goblin mini can do 70w quite comfortably :)
     
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  7. Gert_Koen

    Gert_Koen Active Member

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    The Invader uses whatever watts you set it on..But lower watts take longer to reach set temperature, when set temperature is reached the watts on display drop down and the device will give or take whatever watts to maintain set temperature.
     
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  8. CYB3R N1NJ4

    CYB3R N1NJ4 The Vaping Ninja

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    This is actually quite a steep learning curve for me, kanthal and watts were quite easy. Even know wraps and gauge with ID builds out my head because it built so often.
    Now throw lower resistance wire and temp into the same equastion is something else.
    Dont mistake it, I enjoy the problem solving and having fun vaping at the same time!
    My mod was constantly set to around between 35 and 50w due to dual 26g kanthal builds in tanks.
    This might be my lightbulb moment as to why my single coil nickel builds were failing and so bad. I assume a singe 28g coil should not be fired at 40w!
     
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  9. fractious

    fractious Admin

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    In theory (and this greatly depends on the specific implementation of TC on your specific device) the power setting determines how fast your coil heats up (i.e. speed), while temp determines your heat ceiling.

    So (again, in theory) If you like a smoother vape then lower power will be best suited, and higher power should be better for a nice kick. The temp should generally be set depending on how warm you like your vape. Some of these combinations will work better than others - for example, using low temp with too much power will generally result in pulsing as the power keeps backing off when the temp limit is reached.

    And of course, the particular guage of wire, and the number of wraps will play a part as well - this is often overlooked because it's such a struggle (especially with dual coils) to get a working build within the devices limits. This works the same as with kanthal - so lower guauge (thicker) wire is better suited to high power, and higher guage (thinner) wire is better suited to lower power.

    All of this however varies greatly based on the specific implementation of TC on your specific device as well.

    I'll restate that this is all theoretical and in practice it doesn't always work this way :)
     
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  10. Gert_Koen

    Gert_Koen Active Member

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    With my scraps I twisted 28G 6 wraps around 2 mm mandrels..And it came to 0.09 ohms...And the Invader is firing and controlling the temperature..As per earlier statement I am using the Goliath's OCC housing..This works great! uploadfromtaptalk1438972564739.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1438972595399.jpg
     
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  11. shabbar

    shabbar Cloud and Flavor Chaser

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    My take on TC using the SX Mini.

    Im using the stock temperature sensing nickel coils set at 220 degrees and between 25 - 35 j. my findings are crisper cleaner flavor then with kanthal , also been using the same coil for over a month and there's no gunking , my TS coils actually last longer then the kanthal.
    Battery life sucks in temp mode and with a .05 ohm occ coil i get a day and a half and in temp mode a day.

    also found it easier to wrap nickels by wrapping my drill bit with cotton then coiling it and just pulling the bit out , this makes the cotton hollow which i find absorbs juice better imo.
     
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  12. Polar

    Polar New Member

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    This is a safety feature I'd guess... From my little understanding on the subject Nickel carbonizes when burning to hot. These fumes are speculated to be extremely toxic. Nickel should never be fired in VW mode. This is also why the atomizer resistance needs to locked in at room temp.

    I am enjoying the TC on a Triton NI200 1.5Ohm atomizer at 400F, 70W ramp. Consistent, lots of flavor and big cloud production and the vape is really cool... Certainly not for the stealth requirements.

    Certainly helps battery life over sub Ohm high Watt requirements, single cell mods are more convenient to ADV.
     
  13. fractious

    fractious Admin

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    I'm assuming you mean 0.15 Ohm here....a 1.5 Ohm 28G Ni200 would require approximately 130 wraps @ 2.5mm ID :p:D
    What device are you using for TC?

    And welcome to the Haven :)
     
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  14. CYB3R N1NJ4

    CYB3R N1NJ4 The Vaping Ninja

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    Thanks for saving me all that nickel to test that build!
    Must admit, I am tending to change the way I Vape these days. Where before I would just be above the safely zone just to get a decent Vape. So 0.1 and 0.2 in a tank has now suddenly become 1.2. I find the larger coil surface area a more rewarding Vape and flavour is amazing... So would have tried this 1.5 nickel build ;)
     
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  15. PapaSmurf

    PapaSmurf Bringer of Calm ... Staff Member Admin

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    Your device won't fire that high resistance in TC mode, and running Ni in power mode is not a good idea :)
     
  16. CYB3R N1NJ4

    CYB3R N1NJ4 The Vaping Ninja

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    Should maybe have clarified, SIG 150 with 24g kanthal on a 3mm ID instead of TC!
     
  17. Polar

    Polar New Member

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    Lol, are we saying it cant be done... ;)

    Using the Aspire Pegasus for the TC side of things.
     
  18. Mark

    Mark Staff Member Moderator

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    With regards wattage in TC mode... When reading up on the hype of TC, I saw a video where a guy made a great analogy.

    TC is like cruise control on a car,where the speed you've set is the temperature and the accelerator is the wattage.

    When cruising, the accelerator does whatever it needs to, to maintain the speed you've set. It'll floor it on hills, or it'll back off down slopes.

    When vaping, the wattage you've set will adjust itself in order to reach and maintain the temperature you've set. If you set the wattage to 40, it'll be like putting a brick behind the accelerator pedal... It'll try reach the speed, but because you're limiting how much acceleration can be used, it'll struggle.

    If you set the wattage to 200 for eg, it'll almost immediately reach the desired temp, and then it'll back off until it loses that temp, then it'll build it up again... Constantly making small adjustments to maintain the desired temp.

    This is also my TC is said to make batteries last longer... Instead of constantly having pedal to the metal at 150w, it'll spike there and then drop lower etc... Only using what it has to to maintain the temperature.

    Thought it was a great example and made perfect sense to me :)
     
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  19. fractious

    fractious Admin

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    Pretty good description....it also comes with collision (dry hit) prevention.

    If there is an object immediately in front of you it will apply the break in order to preventing an accident (dry hit) :)
     
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  20. Wyvern

    Wyvern Active Member

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    Just a pity mine refuses to work with SS on my mini :(
     

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